talk 358

One evening in December of 2000, a plane flew me into the HK International airport at about 8 PM. Went through immigration and customs in a breeze, took the speed-train into Kowloon and checked into a hotel in Tsimshatsui. By 11 PM I was walking on Nathan Rd, looking around to see what the actions were these days. The streets were less busy than I remembered, but there were plenty of stuff even near mid-night.

Walked into the side streets, they were still a maze to me since PC days. Peter Tong used to lived around there. Been to his flat a hundred times, but still a maze to me around that little corner of Kowloon. Never could remember the names of the streets and where they started and ended ( Well, can you tell the difference between Cameron Rd, Cameron St and Kimberly Rd ?). The amazing thing is that one never really gets lost there. One can always find Nathan Rd. and everything is "safe" again.

Came upon " Humphreys Rd" when exiting the " maze" and saw a small "sidewalk cafe" called "Yuan Kee". Walked into Yan Kee, only one small table out of 5 was free. Sat down and asked for " Beef Tendon noodles" and " yau choi ".

A few minutes later, a young man walked in and saw me sitting at the table with an available seat. He came over and asked " May I sit here?" in English, yes in English. I was taken aback. I didn't think I looked like a " Qual Lo ". I was silent when he walked in. So what gave?

I said "Sure, please do" also in English. I thought he could be a " Jokesing " , even though he did not sound like one. He, then, ordered "Seaweed beef brisket Fen" in unaccented Cantonese (or at least 5 decades better than James Koo's Cantonese). I had never heard of " Seaweed mixed in with beef brisket " ever. After awhile, curiosity got the better of me and I asked him why seaweed with briskets, this time in Cantonese.

He proceeded to tell me Yuan Kee was famous for this. Both the "fen" and "mean" at Yuan Kee were unparalleled. He also told me where to go for crab meat porridge ( I don't care for that) in Wai Chai and other " good stuff ".

Indeed, the " mean" I consumed that night at Yuan Kee was truly outstanding. In terms of the degree of " song " , Yuan Kee mean far exceeded any others I have tasted on that trip.

I never did ask him why he spoke to me in English initially. A few days later, it occurred to me that he recognized my very " Lo Tao---unfashionable" way of dressing. I had to be either an "Ah Bak---old guy from the US" or a " bill shuk---distance uncle from the mainland". However, some of the " bill shuks" can be very fashionable; " Ah Baks" are hardly ever fashionable. The young man took a chance and figured I was an " Ah Bak". He had a better than 50/50 chance of being right, smart kid.

On the streets of HK, the cops have the right to ask anyone for an ID. This is especially noticeable around subway stations. I observed these cops looking at people and the way they dressed. They would pick those who dressed in a " Lo-Tao" way, and occasionally really sharp dressers, too sharp to be chic. I have not been stopped by any cops yet, but I am certainly a candidate for inspection.

This is like being stopped by cops in the US because of the color of the skin. It is the same deal everywhere.